Khaislot

There is a Bengali word, Khaislot, which means character but with a snide touch. You hear it used a lot in the same sentence as politicians, for example. In the thirty years I was abroad, the Khaislot of many a Bangladeshi added one characteristic that I wish it had not.

It is the unwillngness or utter inability of admitting a mistake.

Take tonight for example. On the way home I stopped at the furniture store where our old rocking chair was being repainted. A cursory glance showed that the arms of the chair had rough patches on the paint which looked like someone's fingerprints on wet paint.

But the guy would not admit a mistake! He kept insisting that it was ok, it was not a problem. His final stand - the closest to admitting the mistake - was that it would be fine, no problem, because the roughness would eventually smooth out.

Of course I did not accept it. He then tried to sandpaper it but that messed up the paintwork, so he has more work to do.

Reminds me of another incident right after we had arrived here. We bought air conditioners form a reputable company and they sent people to install them. The remotes for the ACs had their own remote control "holders". These holders were designed to be bolted to the wall. Each holder had two holes and came with two screws for bolting them.

(The reason you need two screws is because if you bolt it with just one, it will not stay in one place, but move left and right with every nudge.)

Well, I noticed the guy going around the house bolting the holders with only one screw. When I asked him why he was not using two, he said, "But sir, if I use two, I might make a mistake and not align it perfectly, so it will always look ugly. With one, even if it is a little misaligned, you can nudge it a little and align it. See, like this."

I think that was the closest I came to slapping someone here. I really really wish Bangladeshis learn to own up when they make a mistake and not insult others' intelligence.

After the Party

Eid-ul-Azha - celebrated by Muslims - is in many ways like Thanksgiving. People eat. They seriously chow down. For many of the poor, perhaps it is one of precious few days in the year when they eat (a lot of) meat.

The day after Eid, people head home after their vacation. Not a happy day for many, with school and work looming on the horizon.

Here are some pictures from Sadarghat, Dhaka's massive river terminal, as people try to return home after the big party.

You make the Eid feeling last a little longer by decking out on new dresses...



... and the henna stays for a few days.



"The shades help me look cool...



...but the crowds are marching to the pier...



... and I know the party is over."



"Hurry Grandpa, you don't want to miss the boat, do you?"



"So many boats here... which one is mine?



... oh, there it is!"



Some have to carry their stuff...



... while others, such as this man, have to be carried themselves.



For many little ones, Mommy is just a kiss away...



...but you really don't want to be lost in a place like this.



"The boat looks pretty big...



... I wonder what our place will look like...



... and whether I will be able to play Horsie."



"Wish Eid had lasted a little longer. But it was good. See you next year!"

At the Monipuri Raash Mela

Every year, during the full moon in November, the Manipuri people of Sylhet hold a Raash Mela. Meant to celebrate the love of Radha and Krishna, Raash is a colorful indigenous festival of Bangladesh.

In Raash, children wear magnificent costumes...



... and perform a ceremonial dance...



... often culminating with flames offered for worship.



It takes place on the banks of the beautiful Dolai river. People come walking...



...as well as using every imaginable means of transport!



Vendors sell bananas...



... and cookies...



... and of course ice cream for the kids.



Speaking of ice cream, why should kids have all the fun?



Some people seemed preocupied...



...but most joined in the fun...



Women decked out in elegant dresses...



...and memories were preserved for posterity.



Some ignored the crowd and concentrated on their test-drive.



Flutes were a special part of this celebration. In the legend, Krishna had used the magical sounds of his flute to charm Radha.



All in all, an excellent festival to attend. There is also a night part of this festival.


PS:
Manipuris, whose homeland is in the Indian state of Manipur, also reside in some part of Sylhet. How did they come here? Back in the British days, the Manipuri king did not accept colonial rule. So the British defeated him in battle. As punishment he (along with members of his court) were banished to... Sylhet! The Manipuris in Sylhet are decendants of those people.

The Charms of Old Dhaka

You never know the charming surprises awaiting you when you explore Old Dhaka. As I watched some children playing by the road...




...I heard the rustle of wings, and this man showed up chasing a bird...



... while a little further up, this young man waited around with an unusual dog.



The chores of daily life went on. A boy got water for cooking..



...and lunch looked more promising with this Hilsa sold by a travelling fishmonger.



Elsewhere, two flower sellers enjoyed their morning cuppa..



... as two friends shared a secret.




Old Dhaka is a lot about old buildings. Like the dazzle of Qassabtuli Mosque...



... and the serene formalism of Pogose School...



... but running into unknown old buildings is a special treat, like this one at the Sutrapur end...



... or this old temple which is now someone's home.



Some buildings have welcoming entrances...



... while others have an air of mystery, like this barber shop...



... and yet others speak of longing.



But the melancholy passes quickly when a vivacious girl appears...



...or a pretty woman crosses the street.



Old Dhaka is also the heart of business in Dhaka. It takes all kinds. For example, some make balloons...



...while others sell them...



...during special occasions such as Durga Puja.



So... the next time you are in the area, drop by old Dhaka. It's as colorful as it gets. Like these girls at Dhakeswari Temple.