Serving up Haleem for Iftar During Ramadan
February 21, Language Day
Durga Puja of the Hindus
Bouddha Purnima of the Buddhists
Muharram of the Shi'a Muslims
St. Anthony's Festival of the Catholics
Bengali New Year
Rash Festival of the Manipuris
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
More Occasions Than You Can Shake a Stick At
These are trying times for Bangladesh. Maybe it is time to look at the many different occasions, festive or otherwise, that take place here, to show the spirit and diversity of the people?
Serving up Haleem for Iftar During Ramadan
February 21, Language Day
Durga Puja of the Hindus
Bouddha Purnima of the Buddhists
Muharram of the Shi'a Muslims
St. Anthony's Festival of the Catholics
Bengali New Year
Rash Festival of the Manipuris
Serving up Haleem for Iftar During Ramadan
February 21, Language Day
Durga Puja of the Hindus
Bouddha Purnima of the Buddhists
Muharram of the Shi'a Muslims
St. Anthony's Festival of the Catholics
Bengali New Year
Rash Festival of the Manipuris
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Bradt Guide on Bangladesh
New Bradt Guide on Bangladesh written by Mikey Leung and Belinda Meggitt is showing up on Amazon UK as a pre-order item. Expected to ship in Sept 2009.
YouTube Irony
There is a huge irony in Bangladesh govt blocking YouTube inside the country.
That's because one of the three founders of YouTube is of Bangladeshi-German origin.
That would be Jawed Karim.
That's because one of the three founders of YouTube is of Bangladeshi-German origin.
That would be Jawed Karim.
Friday, March 06, 2009
Memories of 7 March
March 7, 1971 seems a long time ago. While I have no memory of what I did on March 6 or March 8 of that year, I have a clear memory of the afternoon of March 7.
At that time Bangladesh was called East Pakistan. It was a province of Pakistan.
A few months earlier, after years of military rule, elections had taken place all over Pakistan. Awami League - led by Sheikh Mujib (Father of the Nation of Bangladesh) - won convincingly. However, the military ruler of Pakistan, Yahya Khan, in collusion with the second place winner Z. A. Bhutto, refused to hand over power. On March 1, the handover was indefinitely postponed.
This move caused great dissatisfaction in East Pakistan. A civil disobedience movement was launched in protest.
It was with this background that the Awami League called the 7th March meeting at Paltan Maidan, a large open air park in central Dhaka. Sk. Mujib was going to speak.
I was in seventh grade, and hardly a political creature. My family had moved to Dhaka from Sylhet less than a year ago. The small-town boy was still trying to find his bearings in the big city.
But this day, I felt a tug to go to this meeting. I was afraid to go alone. So in the afternoon, I somehow made my way from our Mohammedpur home to my Aunt's house in Shegun Bagicha. I had many cousins in that house and hoped to tag along to the meeting with one of them. As I was entering the gates of the sprawling house, I ran into T-bhai. He was older than me but, unlike other older cousins, treated me as an equal, rather than a child.
"Oh, you want to go to that meeting? I was just heading there. Why don't you come with me?" he said. Just as we were out the gate, he stopped. "Wait, I have an idea. Let me get my transistor radio."
"What for, T-bhai?"
"It will be so crowded that we might end up being far from the speaker and have trouble hearing. They will broadcast it live on the radio, so we won't miss the speech."
I thought it was strange, going to a public meeting with a radio. But I kept quiet.
In a few minutes we were at the far end of Paltan, at least half a mile from the stage. We must have looked funny, in that ocean of humanity, straining to listen to the radio while watching the miniscule figures in the distance. I can't remember if anyone else spoke, but when Sk. Mujib came on, we could hear all the words clearly on the radio, while many in the crowd near us strained to hear the loudspeakers. What an orator he was, and what a speech!
Much has been written about this speech, a turning point in Bd history. I certainly cannot add to it. While it fell short of a formal declaration of independence, it was a very persuasive call to resist and fight until the rights of the people were won.
To this day, if I get a chance, I tease T-bhai about that transistor radio. But you gotta admit, it was a smart move on his part.
At that time Bangladesh was called East Pakistan. It was a province of Pakistan.
A few months earlier, after years of military rule, elections had taken place all over Pakistan. Awami League - led by Sheikh Mujib (Father of the Nation of Bangladesh) - won convincingly. However, the military ruler of Pakistan, Yahya Khan, in collusion with the second place winner Z. A. Bhutto, refused to hand over power. On March 1, the handover was indefinitely postponed.
This move caused great dissatisfaction in East Pakistan. A civil disobedience movement was launched in protest.
It was with this background that the Awami League called the 7th March meeting at Paltan Maidan, a large open air park in central Dhaka. Sk. Mujib was going to speak.
I was in seventh grade, and hardly a political creature. My family had moved to Dhaka from Sylhet less than a year ago. The small-town boy was still trying to find his bearings in the big city.
But this day, I felt a tug to go to this meeting. I was afraid to go alone. So in the afternoon, I somehow made my way from our Mohammedpur home to my Aunt's house in Shegun Bagicha. I had many cousins in that house and hoped to tag along to the meeting with one of them. As I was entering the gates of the sprawling house, I ran into T-bhai. He was older than me but, unlike other older cousins, treated me as an equal, rather than a child.
"Oh, you want to go to that meeting? I was just heading there. Why don't you come with me?" he said. Just as we were out the gate, he stopped. "Wait, I have an idea. Let me get my transistor radio."
"What for, T-bhai?"
"It will be so crowded that we might end up being far from the speaker and have trouble hearing. They will broadcast it live on the radio, so we won't miss the speech."
I thought it was strange, going to a public meeting with a radio. But I kept quiet.
In a few minutes we were at the far end of Paltan, at least half a mile from the stage. We must have looked funny, in that ocean of humanity, straining to listen to the radio while watching the miniscule figures in the distance. I can't remember if anyone else spoke, but when Sk. Mujib came on, we could hear all the words clearly on the radio, while many in the crowd near us strained to hear the loudspeakers. What an orator he was, and what a speech!
Much has been written about this speech, a turning point in Bd history. I certainly cannot add to it. While it fell short of a formal declaration of independence, it was a very persuasive call to resist and fight until the rights of the people were won.
To this day, if I get a chance, I tease T-bhai about that transistor radio. But you gotta admit, it was a smart move on his part.
Wednesday, March 04, 2009
The Time In Between
Summer's hot breath is on our back, yet mornings remain cool. Pleasant breezes blow in the afternoon, specially at the lakes and parks of the city. Winter fruits such as Boroi and Aamloki start winding down. Spring flowers - scarlet Mandar, flaming Polash and cool Shimul - light up the countryside. Mahogany trees grow new leaves - fragile, yellow, shiny. Morning fogs become rare, though there was a thick one today.
This is spring, an in-between time, sandwiched by the refreshing cool of winter and the merciless heat of summer. This year's spring is significant as we wait to find out:
- how many hours of loadshedding shall we endure daily in the summer?
- (more to the point) do those RahimAfrooz batteries in the backup power supplies really last as advertised?
- what will be the outcome of the BDR investigation committees?
- (more to the point) will the committees agree on their conclusions?
- will early rains make up for the really dry winter?
- will remittances go down as the world gets deeper into financial mess?
- will Madoff get to keep his penthouse while the poor nations still get lectured on corruption?
- will continued low oil prices destroy green energy initiatives?
- will Bd shipbuilding get govt help like other sectors (garments, food) but software will remain shunned, on its own?
- will the GrameenPhone IPO ever happen?
- will the price of rice make it down to Tk 20/kg (hope not, for the sake of the farmer)
So many questions, so few answers... 8-)
This is spring, an in-between time, sandwiched by the refreshing cool of winter and the merciless heat of summer. This year's spring is significant as we wait to find out:
- how many hours of loadshedding shall we endure daily in the summer?
- (more to the point) do those RahimAfrooz batteries in the backup power supplies really last as advertised?
- what will be the outcome of the BDR investigation committees?
- (more to the point) will the committees agree on their conclusions?
- will early rains make up for the really dry winter?
- will remittances go down as the world gets deeper into financial mess?
- will Madoff get to keep his penthouse while the poor nations still get lectured on corruption?
- will continued low oil prices destroy green energy initiatives?
- will Bd shipbuilding get govt help like other sectors (garments, food) but software will remain shunned, on its own?
- will the GrameenPhone IPO ever happen?
- will the price of rice make it down to Tk 20/kg (hope not, for the sake of the farmer)
So many questions, so few answers... 8-)
Saturday, February 28, 2009
At BDR Gate
This afternoon I went to BDR gate for the first time since the BDR mutiny, with a friend.
A crowd of people waited outside, many of them journalists. They perked up every time someone came outside. Several vehicles went in and others came out - they were pretty much all Army. We did not even try to get in because they were extremely tight about it.
I am not even sure why I went there. I do not consider myself a journalist or a photojournalist. I certainly did not expect any photo opportunities. In fact, events of the last few days have once again reinforced my belief in not taking photographs during other people's misfortunes (specially moments that should be private.)
However, I still went because something inside nudged me. I can't explain.
Most of the time the journalists stood around bored.
At one point, a village family with a suitcase - looked like they just got off the train - came looking for their loved one. I spotted them as they came towards the gate. Within minutes they were being mobbed by the journalists and photographers. I could not get myself to point my camera at them.
As we waited, this truck full of soldiers went inside the compound.
Some time later, two BDR jowans came out. They had been on leave during the mutiny and had just returned. The press asked them many questions. Here is one of them, Hasibur, listening to a reporter's questions. A part of me could not accept that other jowans, dressed like him, had committed some pretty savage acts. Yet it had happened.
I was there for about 45 minutes. It seemed quite far from the place where so much atrocity had been committed just two days ago. A small trafic jam resulted from the crowd of onlookers. There was a circus atmosphere (and you could argue that me and my friend were also in the audience.) So I left as soon as my friend was done taking his photos.
A crowd of people waited outside, many of them journalists. They perked up every time someone came outside. Several vehicles went in and others came out - they were pretty much all Army. We did not even try to get in because they were extremely tight about it.
I am not even sure why I went there. I do not consider myself a journalist or a photojournalist. I certainly did not expect any photo opportunities. In fact, events of the last few days have once again reinforced my belief in not taking photographs during other people's misfortunes (specially moments that should be private.)
However, I still went because something inside nudged me. I can't explain.
Most of the time the journalists stood around bored.
At one point, a village family with a suitcase - looked like they just got off the train - came looking for their loved one. I spotted them as they came towards the gate. Within minutes they were being mobbed by the journalists and photographers. I could not get myself to point my camera at them.
As we waited, this truck full of soldiers went inside the compound.
Some time later, two BDR jowans came out. They had been on leave during the mutiny and had just returned. The press asked them many questions. Here is one of them, Hasibur, listening to a reporter's questions. A part of me could not accept that other jowans, dressed like him, had committed some pretty savage acts. Yet it had happened.
I was there for about 45 minutes. It seemed quite far from the place where so much atrocity had been committed just two days ago. A small trafic jam resulted from the crowd of onlookers. There was a circus atmosphere (and you could argue that me and my friend were also in the audience.) So I left as soon as my friend was done taking his photos.
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Who? Why?
As the extent of the mayhem inside BDR headquarters becomes clear (over 200 Army officers killed), two questions in everyone's mind: Who? and Why?
Who were the planners, ringleaders and assassins of the mutiny? It was a planned event to decapitate the border protection forces. It boggles the mind that the same jawans who were selling low-price rice and daal to the poor during the food crisis after Sidr are the ones who planned and committed these acts - it was not a spontaneous rebellion. If there were indeed cold-blooded assassins let us find them.
Why? I have heard many reasons for this. Suggestions include built up grievances over pay, not being allowed to participate in UN peacekeeping, not getting a share of profits made from selling food.... Someone else suggested that whoever did this wanted to paralyze the border protection (why?) Finally, an intriguing theory from a friend this morning: BDR Headquarters sit on 2.6 sq km of prime land inside Dhaka but if they can be ousted from there, someone can grab this land.
Perhaps we will never know :-(
Who were the planners, ringleaders and assassins of the mutiny? It was a planned event to decapitate the border protection forces. It boggles the mind that the same jawans who were selling low-price rice and daal to the poor during the food crisis after Sidr are the ones who planned and committed these acts - it was not a spontaneous rebellion. If there were indeed cold-blooded assassins let us find them.
Why? I have heard many reasons for this. Suggestions include built up grievances over pay, not being allowed to participate in UN peacekeeping, not getting a share of profits made from selling food.... Someone else suggested that whoever did this wanted to paralyze the border protection (why?) Finally, an intriguing theory from a friend this morning: BDR Headquarters sit on 2.6 sq km of prime land inside Dhaka but if they can be ousted from there, someone can grab this land.
Perhaps we will never know :-(
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
The Day After
For once I was actually missing the traffic jams on Dhaka streets this morning. While there were cars out, and children were going to neighborhood schools, traffic density was 1/2 to 1/3 of normal. My car was not allowed to go into New Elephant Road from Shahbagh, though I did go into the University area - and then Nazimuddin Road - without any hassle. Needing to go to Kalabagan, I found that entrance to Mirpur Road south (ie, towards New Market) from Pantha Path was closed. I got down and walked a bit - the Uttara Bank on Mirpur Road was closed, but other shops were open - and saw several big military vehicles headed the way of New Market.
I was informed that at noon the cellphones would be disconnected. It appears that connections with the rest of the country and within Peelkhana is disrupted, but mobiles within Dhaka work.
Then I heard that a lot of firing was taking place at Peelkhana. Speaking to a photographer friend who lives in Dhanmandi near there, it transpired that the newly appointed boss of BDR is someone that the Jawans had wanted, and so they were celebrating by firing into the air. Hopefully that is the correct explanation.
There is talk of shots being fired at other BDR camps inside the country. I don't know how much of that is true. I spoke with my contact in Sylhet town and he said things were pretty normal there. I cannot contact anyone in Srimongol/Mouvi Bazar because cellphones are down.
BDR needs to restore chain of command asap. This is the most crucial thing, I think.
Waiting for PM's address to the nation. In the meantime, foreign press trashing of Bangladesh has resumed with a vengeance. "Bangladesh Becomes Battle Ground" says BBC. Not yet.
I was informed that at noon the cellphones would be disconnected. It appears that connections with the rest of the country and within Peelkhana is disrupted, but mobiles within Dhaka work.
Then I heard that a lot of firing was taking place at Peelkhana. Speaking to a photographer friend who lives in Dhanmandi near there, it transpired that the newly appointed boss of BDR is someone that the Jawans had wanted, and so they were celebrating by firing into the air. Hopefully that is the correct explanation.
There is talk of shots being fired at other BDR camps inside the country. I don't know how much of that is true. I spoke with my contact in Sylhet town and he said things were pretty normal there. I cannot contact anyone in Srimongol/Mouvi Bazar because cellphones are down.
BDR needs to restore chain of command asap. This is the most crucial thing, I think.
Waiting for PM's address to the nation. In the meantime, foreign press trashing of Bangladesh has resumed with a vengeance. "Bangladesh Becomes Battle Ground" says BBC. Not yet.
Whew!
With the amnesty, it looks like the standoff will be over soon (hopefully.) MyTV is reporting that the BDR folks in headquarters are waiting for their delegation to return before they release the hostages and lay down their arms.
I for one am looking forward a return to the diet of climate change, corruption and fighting students.
I for one am looking forward a return to the diet of climate change, corruption and fighting students.
Amnesty?
Bangla Vision TV reporting that PM has announced general amnesty for all BDR memberss and assured them their demands will be met.
Negotiations
Those must be some tough negotiations going on right now at the PM's residence where the BDR delegation of 14 arrived about an hour ago.
I understand from my friend in Dhanmandi that the Army and RAB posted outside BDR is waiting, not shooting.
I understand from my friend in Dhanmandi that the Army and RAB posted outside BDR is waiting, not shooting.
Standoff at BDR
I was in the car near Gulistan at about 11:30am when I got a call from my Aunt who sounded quite alarmed - "Do you know trouble has broken out in BDR and there is lots of shooting. Army and BDR are fighting. Go home and don't go out of the house." Two minutes earlier, as I was getting in the car, I had overheard a man speaking on his mobile "...so have lots of people died?" I should have stopped and asked him, but can you really butt in like that?
From the car I made several calls and found out that the BDR (Bangladesh Rifles) - or some members thereof - had indeed mutinied to vent their demands for higher wages etc. It was not clear who they had shot at - one version said their own higher-ups, another version said random shooting. What was clear was the Army and RAB (a SWAT-like task force) had been brought in to contain the mutiny. My friend in that area confirmed that they were setting up machine guns and heavy armaments outside the BDR headquarter, in what looks like a standoff.
In the meantime Prime Minister has apparently sent a delegation to negotiate with BDR and bring this thing to a peaceful end. A curfew is expected tonight. I got two SMS's from my kids' school about limited bus services and cancelling tonight's school events. What's weirder, I got an SMS from another school (where my kids have never attended) asking parents to pick up their kids.
I really really hope and pray that this thing ends without further bloodshed.
From the car I made several calls and found out that the BDR (Bangladesh Rifles) - or some members thereof - had indeed mutinied to vent their demands for higher wages etc. It was not clear who they had shot at - one version said their own higher-ups, another version said random shooting. What was clear was the Army and RAB (a SWAT-like task force) had been brought in to contain the mutiny. My friend in that area confirmed that they were setting up machine guns and heavy armaments outside the BDR headquarter, in what looks like a standoff.
In the meantime Prime Minister has apparently sent a delegation to negotiate with BDR and bring this thing to a peaceful end. A curfew is expected tonight. I got two SMS's from my kids' school about limited bus services and cancelling tonight's school events. What's weirder, I got an SMS from another school (where my kids have never attended) asking parents to pick up their kids.
I really really hope and pray that this thing ends without further bloodshed.
Monday, February 16, 2009
Budget Airlines Redux
Back in September I complained about the absence of budget airlines in Dhaka.
Things have changed. Air Asia will start a DAC->KL service on March 12. According to their web site, the price can be anywhere from around USD 60 to USD 100 each way (after adding taxes.) (Compare with current Thai or Malaysia Airlines pricing of around $550 RT to KL.) In Air Asia, you have to pay extra for checking baggage and for your meals, but you still come out way ahead.
This is really great news. After flying to KL, one can fly to various SE Asian countries (or even London) on Air Asia for discounted fares. I fiddled on their website and realized that a RT ticket to London came to about USD700, compared to the pricing of USD1000 for Emirates et al.
Finally, some relief on this front. I hope this service from Air Asia is very successful.
This should also be a good thing for bringing in more tourists to Bd. Now, if GOB would only lower the cost of getting a visa :-)
Things have changed. Air Asia will start a DAC->KL service on March 12. According to their web site, the price can be anywhere from around USD 60 to USD 100 each way (after adding taxes.) (Compare with current Thai or Malaysia Airlines pricing of around $550 RT to KL.) In Air Asia, you have to pay extra for checking baggage and for your meals, but you still come out way ahead.
This is really great news. After flying to KL, one can fly to various SE Asian countries (or even London) on Air Asia for discounted fares. I fiddled on their website and realized that a RT ticket to London came to about USD700, compared to the pricing of USD1000 for Emirates et al.
Finally, some relief on this front. I hope this service from Air Asia is very successful.
This should also be a good thing for bringing in more tourists to Bd. Now, if GOB would only lower the cost of getting a visa :-)
Friday, February 06, 2009
The Six Hundred Thousand Dollar Man
The talk of the town: Bangladeshi cricketer Mashrafee who was "sold" to an Indian outfit for $600,000 in an auction. As a friend pointed out, we are now a cricketer-exporting nation :-). AFAIK, the deal means that he will have to play between 15 and 30 days of cricket for this team. In exchange he gets to keep a cool $600k (sans taxes.)
The amount may not be much compared to what Western sports stars make, but here it is staggering. "What will you do with all that money?" appears to be the most common question the cricketer is facing.
Heartiest congratulations to Mr. Mashrafee.
Wish: maybe now Bd national cricket team can stop being surprised by minnow teams?
I am also thinking what this money deal will mean to the younger generations. The good thing is that many more from all strata will feel inspired to play cricket. OTOH, I sure hope that Bd kids don't end up with a bad case of the "inner-city kids NBA dreams syndrome." In the US, lured by dreams of multi-million dollar NBA contracts, many poorer kids give up on their studies, then also fail to make it as basketball stars. The reason is simple: the odds against are astronomical, no matter how good one is.
Nevertheless, this is a Good Thing. It boosts self-confidence on all levels and shows we-can-do-it-too. In a nation so short of visible heroes, one hopes Mr. Mashrafee will end up being one and inspire many others. (Eg, he could publicly encourage kids to stay in school and finish their studies while working on the sports.)
The amount may not be much compared to what Western sports stars make, but here it is staggering. "What will you do with all that money?" appears to be the most common question the cricketer is facing.
Heartiest congratulations to Mr. Mashrafee.
Wish: maybe now Bd national cricket team can stop being surprised by minnow teams?
I am also thinking what this money deal will mean to the younger generations. The good thing is that many more from all strata will feel inspired to play cricket. OTOH, I sure hope that Bd kids don't end up with a bad case of the "inner-city kids NBA dreams syndrome." In the US, lured by dreams of multi-million dollar NBA contracts, many poorer kids give up on their studies, then also fail to make it as basketball stars. The reason is simple: the odds against are astronomical, no matter how good one is.
Nevertheless, this is a Good Thing. It boosts self-confidence on all levels and shows we-can-do-it-too. In a nation so short of visible heroes, one hopes Mr. Mashrafee will end up being one and inspire many others. (Eg, he could publicly encourage kids to stay in school and finish their studies while working on the sports.)
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Faces of the Faithful
The Bishwa Ijtema taking place near Dhaka is the second largest annual gathering of Muslims after the Hajj. An estimated 1.5 million people participate. Here are some people at this year's Ijtema.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Things to See and Do in Bangladesh
I recently received some emails from people considering a visit to Bangladesh. So here is a list of possible sights and activities.
Sights:
1. Sundarban - a visit to Sundarban, a large mangrove forest in Southern Bangladesh, would be #1 on my list. This is a multi-day guided tour, since you need a boat to get there and explore. See my report on this topic.
2. Srimongol - about 3.5 hours by car from Dhaka, this area contains several tea gardens and Lawachhera national forest. It is easy to explore both Lawachhera and the tea gardens. If you need to stay overnight, the Tea Resort is a good place. Or you can make it a (long) day-trip from Dhaka.
3. Old Dhaka - those interested in architecture as well as exploring narrow alleys and disorientingly crazy crowds can spend days walking through and exploring old Dhaka. Don't miss Bara Katara, Lalbagh Fort, Star Mosque, Armenian Church and Dhakeshwari Temple.
4. Sonargaon - this was the first capital of Bengal, and it still retains historical buildings. Panam Nagar, dating back about 100 years, is an interesting ghost town. A few km away is a replica of Taj Mahal. About an hour from Dhaka.
5. New Dhaka - Curzon Hall, Shaheed Minar, Parliament Building (designed by Louis Kahn) etc.
6. Chittagong Hill Tracts - The Hill Tracts are supposed to be very pretty, but I have not been there for many many years. Guide Tours has a hotel in Bandorbon; there is also Peda Ting Ting, an eco-resort on an island near Kaptai.
7. Coxs Bazar and Kuakata - beaches.
8. Buddhist ruins - There are several ancient (1000+ years) Buddhist ruins spread around the country, including Moinamoti, Paharpur and some near Rajshahi.
9. Rajshahi, Chittagong, Sylhet - The first two are pretty cities to explore. The outskirts of Sylhet (towards Tamabil, and the airport road) are very beautiful.
Also on my list of places to visit are Birisiri, Madhupur and St Martin's Island, but since I have not been there, I cannot tell you too much about them.
Activities
1. Bird-watching - Bangladesh has a huge number of birds, specially in winter. Catch a sight of the Masked Finfoot in Sundarban. Kingfishers, kites, hoopoes and orioles are also common.
2. Mountain Biking - Bangladesh is a great country for mountain biking because there are no mountains. Country roads that connect the villages together provide a splendid network for exploring, and if you come to a river, most likely you will find a boatman who will take you across. Bicycling through the meandering tea-garden paths is also fantastic.
3. Riverboating - a number of companies, including Contiki tours, take tourists on rides on the rivers. Try to get to the Dhaleswari, Meghna or Padma river, and give Buri Ganga and Turag a miss. Balu is ok, too.
4. Learning to Recycle - in Kamrangir Char near old Dhaka, there are some amazing recycling facilities.
5. Hiking - virtually any place outside Dhaka is good for walking. The more remote the place is, the more privacy you will have.
6. Metal Crafts - about 1 hour from Dhaka is Dhamrai, famous for its art and craft. At Dhamrai Metal Craft you can learn how those amazing metal sculptures are made.
7. Photography - if you are into photography, you will find the people of Bangladesh friendly and willing to pose. Or, if you take a trip on the Rocket launch, you will have plenty of opportunities to take pictures of birds and river dolphins. Tea gardens of Srimongol are great for nature photography, and old Dhaka provides opportunities for architectural photography.
8. Gastronomy in old Dhaka - start with some Bakarkhani crackers (available all over old Dhaka) and rich milk-tea, or eat breakfast at Haji's Biriyani in Bangshal (they slaughter 40-50 goats evey night for next morning's biriyani), lunch on a giant Rui-fish steak at Al Razzaque restaurant and in the evening head for mouth-watering kababs at Star Kabab.
9. Shopping - Dhaka is not Dubai, but then you don't need a thick wad of cash either. At Bongo Bazar you can buy export-quality clothes for a pittance. Aarong, Jatra and several other stores sell high-quality handcrafted goods. And don't forget the DVDs.
Sights:
1. Sundarban - a visit to Sundarban, a large mangrove forest in Southern Bangladesh, would be #1 on my list. This is a multi-day guided tour, since you need a boat to get there and explore. See my report on this topic.
2. Srimongol - about 3.5 hours by car from Dhaka, this area contains several tea gardens and Lawachhera national forest. It is easy to explore both Lawachhera and the tea gardens. If you need to stay overnight, the Tea Resort is a good place. Or you can make it a (long) day-trip from Dhaka.
3. Old Dhaka - those interested in architecture as well as exploring narrow alleys and disorientingly crazy crowds can spend days walking through and exploring old Dhaka. Don't miss Bara Katara, Lalbagh Fort, Star Mosque, Armenian Church and Dhakeshwari Temple.
4. Sonargaon - this was the first capital of Bengal, and it still retains historical buildings. Panam Nagar, dating back about 100 years, is an interesting ghost town. A few km away is a replica of Taj Mahal. About an hour from Dhaka.
5. New Dhaka - Curzon Hall, Shaheed Minar, Parliament Building (designed by Louis Kahn) etc.
6. Chittagong Hill Tracts - The Hill Tracts are supposed to be very pretty, but I have not been there for many many years. Guide Tours has a hotel in Bandorbon; there is also Peda Ting Ting, an eco-resort on an island near Kaptai.
7. Coxs Bazar and Kuakata - beaches.
8. Buddhist ruins - There are several ancient (1000+ years) Buddhist ruins spread around the country, including Moinamoti, Paharpur and some near Rajshahi.
9. Rajshahi, Chittagong, Sylhet - The first two are pretty cities to explore. The outskirts of Sylhet (towards Tamabil, and the airport road) are very beautiful.
Also on my list of places to visit are Birisiri, Madhupur and St Martin's Island, but since I have not been there, I cannot tell you too much about them.
Activities
1. Bird-watching - Bangladesh has a huge number of birds, specially in winter. Catch a sight of the Masked Finfoot in Sundarban. Kingfishers, kites, hoopoes and orioles are also common.
2. Mountain Biking - Bangladesh is a great country for mountain biking because there are no mountains. Country roads that connect the villages together provide a splendid network for exploring, and if you come to a river, most likely you will find a boatman who will take you across. Bicycling through the meandering tea-garden paths is also fantastic.
3. Riverboating - a number of companies, including Contiki tours, take tourists on rides on the rivers. Try to get to the Dhaleswari, Meghna or Padma river, and give Buri Ganga and Turag a miss. Balu is ok, too.
4. Learning to Recycle - in Kamrangir Char near old Dhaka, there are some amazing recycling facilities.
5. Hiking - virtually any place outside Dhaka is good for walking. The more remote the place is, the more privacy you will have.
6. Metal Crafts - about 1 hour from Dhaka is Dhamrai, famous for its art and craft. At Dhamrai Metal Craft you can learn how those amazing metal sculptures are made.
7. Photography - if you are into photography, you will find the people of Bangladesh friendly and willing to pose. Or, if you take a trip on the Rocket launch, you will have plenty of opportunities to take pictures of birds and river dolphins. Tea gardens of Srimongol are great for nature photography, and old Dhaka provides opportunities for architectural photography.
8. Gastronomy in old Dhaka - start with some Bakarkhani crackers (available all over old Dhaka) and rich milk-tea, or eat breakfast at Haji's Biriyani in Bangshal (they slaughter 40-50 goats evey night for next morning's biriyani), lunch on a giant Rui-fish steak at Al Razzaque restaurant and in the evening head for mouth-watering kababs at Star Kabab.
9. Shopping - Dhaka is not Dubai, but then you don't need a thick wad of cash either. At Bongo Bazar you can buy export-quality clothes for a pittance. Aarong, Jatra and several other stores sell high-quality handcrafted goods. And don't forget the DVDs.
Monday, January 12, 2009
Brrrrr!
Early this morning I went outside wearing a short-sleeve shirt and the cold caught me by surprise. It was at least five degrees cooler than the past few days, the sun was MIA, and a cold wind was blowing. Looking around I realized most others were better prepared for the cold than I was...
Children found warmth with Mommy...
...and Grandpa.
Three cold men kept each other company.
...but this elderly woman was walking alone.
The fruitseller was well-insulated both internally and externally...
...but this girl huddled behind her schoolbooks.
Riding on a rickshaw is brutal on a cold morning...
...but walking with your head exposed is no fun, either...
...and the cold can turn you catatonic...
...so most people cover up, with chadors...
...and hoods...
...but perhaps this woman found the best protection against the cold :-)
Well, anyways... Finally, this girl's smile warmed my day.
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Khaislot
There is a Bengali word, Khaislot, which means character but with a snide touch. You hear it used a lot in the same sentence as politicians, for example. In the thirty years I was abroad, the Khaislot of many a Bangladeshi added one characteristic that I wish it had not.
It is the unwillngness or utter inability of admitting a mistake.
Take tonight for example. On the way home I stopped at the furniture store where our old rocking chair was being repainted. A cursory glance showed that the arms of the chair had rough patches on the paint which looked like someone's fingerprints on wet paint.
But the guy would not admit a mistake! He kept insisting that it was ok, it was not a problem. His final stand - the closest to admitting the mistake - was that it would be fine, no problem, because the roughness would eventually smooth out.
Of course I did not accept it. He then tried to sandpaper it but that messed up the paintwork, so he has more work to do.
Reminds me of another incident right after we had arrived here. We bought air conditioners form a reputable company and they sent people to install them. The remotes for the ACs had their own remote control "holders". These holders were designed to be bolted to the wall. Each holder had two holes and came with two screws for bolting them.
(The reason you need two screws is because if you bolt it with just one, it will not stay in one place, but move left and right with every nudge.)
Well, I noticed the guy going around the house bolting the holders with only one screw. When I asked him why he was not using two, he said, "But sir, if I use two, I might make a mistake and not align it perfectly, so it will always look ugly. With one, even if it is a little misaligned, you can nudge it a little and align it. See, like this."
I think that was the closest I came to slapping someone here. I really really wish Bangladeshis learn to own up when they make a mistake and not insult others' intelligence.
It is the unwillngness or utter inability of admitting a mistake.
Take tonight for example. On the way home I stopped at the furniture store where our old rocking chair was being repainted. A cursory glance showed that the arms of the chair had rough patches on the paint which looked like someone's fingerprints on wet paint.
But the guy would not admit a mistake! He kept insisting that it was ok, it was not a problem. His final stand - the closest to admitting the mistake - was that it would be fine, no problem, because the roughness would eventually smooth out.
Of course I did not accept it. He then tried to sandpaper it but that messed up the paintwork, so he has more work to do.
Reminds me of another incident right after we had arrived here. We bought air conditioners form a reputable company and they sent people to install them. The remotes for the ACs had their own remote control "holders". These holders were designed to be bolted to the wall. Each holder had two holes and came with two screws for bolting them.
(The reason you need two screws is because if you bolt it with just one, it will not stay in one place, but move left and right with every nudge.)
Well, I noticed the guy going around the house bolting the holders with only one screw. When I asked him why he was not using two, he said, "But sir, if I use two, I might make a mistake and not align it perfectly, so it will always look ugly. With one, even if it is a little misaligned, you can nudge it a little and align it. See, like this."
I think that was the closest I came to slapping someone here. I really really wish Bangladeshis learn to own up when they make a mistake and not insult others' intelligence.
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
After the Party
Eid-ul-Azha - celebrated by Muslims - is in many ways like Thanksgiving. People eat. They seriously chow down. For many of the poor, perhaps it is one of precious few days in the year when they eat (a lot of) meat.
The day after Eid, people head home after their vacation. Not a happy day for many, with school and work looming on the horizon.
Here are some pictures from Sadarghat, Dhaka's massive river terminal, as people try to return home after the big party.
You make the Eid feeling last a little longer by decking out on new dresses...
... and the henna stays for a few days.
"The shades help me look cool...
...but the crowds are marching to the pier...
... and I know the party is over."
"Hurry Grandpa, you don't want to miss the boat, do you?"
"So many boats here... which one is mine?
... oh, there it is!"
Some have to carry their stuff...
... while others, such as this man, have to be carried themselves.
For many little ones, Mommy is just a kiss away...
...but you really don't want to be lost in a place like this.
"The boat looks pretty big...
... I wonder what our place will look like...
... and whether I will be able to play Horsie."
"Wish Eid had lasted a little longer. But it was good. See you next year!"
The day after Eid, people head home after their vacation. Not a happy day for many, with school and work looming on the horizon.
Here are some pictures from Sadarghat, Dhaka's massive river terminal, as people try to return home after the big party.
You make the Eid feeling last a little longer by decking out on new dresses...
... and the henna stays for a few days.
"The shades help me look cool...
...but the crowds are marching to the pier...
... and I know the party is over."
"Hurry Grandpa, you don't want to miss the boat, do you?"
"So many boats here... which one is mine?
... oh, there it is!"
Some have to carry their stuff...
... while others, such as this man, have to be carried themselves.
For many little ones, Mommy is just a kiss away...
...but you really don't want to be lost in a place like this.
"The boat looks pretty big...
... I wonder what our place will look like...
... and whether I will be able to play Horsie."
"Wish Eid had lasted a little longer. But it was good. See you next year!"
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)