Monday, November 24, 2008

At the Monipuri Raash Mela

Every year, during the full moon in November, the Manipuri people of Sylhet hold a Raash Mela. Meant to celebrate the love of Radha and Krishna, Raash is a colorful indigenous festival of Bangladesh.

In Raash, children wear magnificent costumes...



... and perform a ceremonial dance...



... often culminating with flames offered for worship.



It takes place on the banks of the beautiful Dolai river. People come walking...



...as well as using every imaginable means of transport!



Vendors sell bananas...



... and cookies...



... and of course ice cream for the kids.



Speaking of ice cream, why should kids have all the fun?



Some people seemed preocupied...



...but most joined in the fun...



Women decked out in elegant dresses...



...and memories were preserved for posterity.



Some ignored the crowd and concentrated on their test-drive.



Flutes were a special part of this celebration. In the legend, Krishna had used the magical sounds of his flute to charm Radha.



All in all, an excellent festival to attend. There is also a night part of this festival.


PS:
Manipuris, whose homeland is in the Indian state of Manipur, also reside in some part of Sylhet. How did they come here? Back in the British days, the Manipuri king did not accept colonial rule. So the British defeated him in battle. As punishment he (along with members of his court) were banished to... Sylhet! The Manipuris in Sylhet are decendants of those people.

Sunday, November 09, 2008

The Charms of Old Dhaka





You never know the charming surprises awaiting you when you explore Old Dhaka. As I watched some children playing by the road...




...I heard the rustle of wings, and this man showed up chasing a bird...



... while a little further up, this young man waited around with an unusual dog.



The chores of daily life went on. A boy got water for cooking..



...and lunch looked more promising with this Hilsa sold by a travelling fishmonger.



Elsewhere, two flower sellers enjoyed their morning cuppa..



... as two friends shared a secret.




Old Dhaka is a lot about old buildings. Like the dazzle of Qassabtuli Mosque...



... and the serene formalism of Pogose School...



... but running into unknown old buildings is a special treat, like this one at the Sutrapur end...



... or this old temple which is now someone's home.



Some buildings have welcoming entrances...



... while others have an air of mystery, like this barber shop...



... and yet others speak of longing.



But the melancholy passes quickly when a vivacious girl appears...



...or a pretty woman crosses the street.



Old Dhaka is also the heart of business in Dhaka. It takes all kinds. For example, some make balloons...



...while others sell them...



...during special occasions such as Durga Puja.



So... the next time you are in the area, drop by old Dhaka. It's as colorful as it gets. Like these girls at Dhakeswari Temple.

Wednesday, November 05, 2008

When Grown Men Cried Tears of Joy

Today was a very special day for anyone who loves America.

Grown men cried tears of joy, not just in America, but also in many other parts of the world.

Let's hope Obama lives up to his promise.

And let's hope the Bd politicians learn a little from the grace that McCain showed (none of that "hey to churi koira jitya gesey" stuff in December, ok?)

Saturday, October 25, 2008

Market Turmoil: View From Here

An article was floating around the other day suggesting Bangladesh will benefit from the current economic turmoil. It reminded me of the early days of the dot-com crash, when Sun's upper management were going around saying, effectively, "We will come out of this slowdown [it was not a crash yet] ahead of, and better than, our competition because bla bla bla." But of course Sun suffered heavily - for a host of reasons, lack of execution being a big one (but that's what happens when the Process Police takes over, no?) But Sun's management had not foreseen that, had they? You never know what strikes you in these situations.

I am not predicting impending doom for Bangladesh, but I cannot disregard the possibility that this country will be affected sooner of later. I spoke with the owner of a large export-oriented business last night. Some of his customers are cancelling or renegotiating contracts, and slowing down the buying. I also read about several Garments owners complaining about order cancellations. But maybe garments will be spared the worst. As another friend pointed out, "Americans are not going to start walking around naked!" According to him, this turmoil will give the buyers another chance to squeeze their Bangladeshi vendors a little more for lower prices.

The Taka being pegged to a resurgent dollar will not help our exports, for sure. But on the other hand, since most garments factories buy much of their raw material from abroad, their materiel costs (in Taka) will go down. Your head spinning yet? Mine is.

Banking in Bangladesh seems reasonably healthy. Much of this, I am told, has been because of the very strict regulating oversight of Bangladesh Bank (which, in turn, is influenced by World Bank.) Whatever the reasons, the banks in Bangladesh have not gone into the business of those crazy products and practices that have gotten the Western banks into trouble.

When I was chatting with a senior, respectable banker the other day, he pointed out that two years ago, some young, hot-shot, western-type bankers had given him and his colleagues a lecture on Securetization, Mortgage-Backed Securities, and other instruments that had become fashionable to the Western banks. At the end of the lecture, my friend had said, "But how can we go into this business? I still don't understand what you are talking about!" He might have felt bad about saying those words then, but today he is not losing a lot of sleep over toxic assets.

While banking appears on solid ground, remittances from overseas workers is a different, unpredictable matter. Some are saying that the drop of oil prices means the Middle Eastern countries will be starting fewer construction projects, and so will hire fewer people from here. The other side I heard was that the Middle Easterners are now so addicted to our cheap labor that they will keep on recruiting no matter what. Who knows?

Finally, real estate. When you have 150 million people squeezed into 55000 square miles, land is expensive. Two words: population pressure. Some, specially those who are in the business, don't see much effect on real estate prices. They argue that many of the buyers are local who have accumulated their wealth in Taka and are ready to spend on flats and land. Others say that real estate will have to slow down because the remittances and exports will slow down. Who knows?

On final reckoning, the market turmoil in the West does seem very far away from the average Bangladeshi, because that person is struggling so hard just to make ends meet and take care of those who depend on him or her. The optimist in me says being so close to tbe bottom of the barrel means that the Bangladeshi will not have to bear a heavy brunt of this storm, while the pessimist says that in times of crisis the worst hit are often those at the bottom of the heap. Who knows? Only time will tell.

Monday, October 06, 2008

Good Day for IT in Bangladesh

Yesterday I attended the inaugural ceremony of the Chittagong Custom House Automation Project at the Bd-China Friendship Center. The project is an undertaking by the Bangladesh Army with cooperation from Ctg Chamber of Commerce. It has a large software component which was developed by DataSoft, a Bangladesh software company.

The goal of the project was to "clean up" and modernize the Customs business at Ctg Port. According to the speakers, there were large inefficiencies and a lot of organized corruption which were choking the import/export lifeblood of the nation. The software component of the project is designed to automate the workflow of import/export paperwork.

The total cost of the project came to about Tk 2 crore. Significantly, under previous administrations, projects costing over Tk 300 crore had failed to modernize the port, as one of the speakers pointed out. (I am not sure what the previous large budgets had included.)

DataSoft is using the Build-Own-Operate-Transfer model to run the project. I assume this means they get an amount from every transaction that takes place.

As an example, the number of steps needed to export something through Ctg Customs House has been reduced from 22 to 7. Similar savings in time and cost were shown in other areas of operation.

The entire project was done with local skills (no foreign consultants or companies involved.)

It is not every day that one hears good things about the local IT business from local luminaries. Therefore, this event was a pleasant surprise for me, particularly because of the support for IT shown by all the speakers: the Chief Advisor and two other Advisors, Army Chief and Generals, Ctg Chamber of Commerce Head and NBR Head. I am sure the hard (and smart) work that the DataSoft team put into the project had a lot to do with this IT-friendly attitude.

At the end of the ceremony, the CA officially started the business of the new CTG Customs House by Clicking "OK" on a live program to start the transactions. DataSoft COO Manjur Mahmud - after making a short presentation on the technology - assisted the CA in this. Behind the scenes, DataSoft MD Mahboob Zaman's dynamism played a big role.

The local IT industry has much to be proud of. Despite an overall lack of vision and questionable (or downright bad) decisions by successive governments, and constant pressure from foreign software companies, they have accomplished much. Perhaps this event will usher in a new era of our national pride and support?

Congratulations to all - particularly to the DataSoft team - on this accomplishment. I hope this plays out well in the long run.

I think it is high time for the IT industry in Bangladesh to go on the offensive!

(Full Disclosure: I was once associated with DataSoft as their CTO - but can claim no credit for this project which started after I left.)

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Eid Portraits

Here are some photos of Eid children, taken within the last week. This is a happy time for most kids because they get new clothes, shoes, toys, ornaments, etc. Besides, everyone else is also in a happy mood.

On the way to Mohakhali bus station.



Waiting around to board the launch at Sadarghat.



"Care to join me for a drink at the Bus Terminal?"



For this boy who carries luggage and goods in Sadarghat, it was an exhausting day.



In the Chittagong train at Kamalapur.



Twins Saad and Sadat wait for their bus in Mohakhali.



This girl has decorated her hands with Mehndi (henna).



Photo-apprehensive sisters at Sadarghat launch terminal.



How do you like my new blue bangles?



Cheeky fellow waiting for the bus.

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Budget Airlines

Seeing a newspaper story about Air Asia given permission to fly in/out of Bangladesh, I was thrilled by the headline. But when I read the article, I discovered that they will be given permission to fly only to Chittagong, not Dhaka.

This really sucks. Between Thai, Singapore, Emirates and British Airways (plus a few others) the higher-priced airlines have the Bangladesh market locked up. I have heard, for example, the DAC->BKK->DAC route is the most profitable route in the world for Thai Airways. At USD 660 Roundtrip, this route and similar ones for SQ, etc, are juicy juicy plums. I am sure mainstream airlines are lobbying hard to keep the budget airlines out.

The fact that not a single budget airline serves ZIA says a lot, doesn't it? GMG was offering some good prices on their two or three overseas routes, but then they took a hit and shut down their foreign operations. It just seems like Dhaka passengers are destined to keep paying high prices for their overseas flights :-(

UPDATE Oct 29, 2008: GMG announced yesterday they are resuming flights to KL and Kathmandu. Hopefully lower fuel prices will help them along.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Story

Mahmud Rahman has a poignant yet funny short story in the Eid Issue of New Age, with an NRB protagonist, set in the Bay Area. I understand a collection of his short stories will be published soon by Penguin India. Way to go!

If you like the story you can read more at his website.

(btw, NRB stands for Non Resident Bangladeshi, although some perma-deshis say it also stands for Non Reliable Bangladeshi :-). )

Thursday, September 04, 2008

Iftar Colors

Something happens on the streets as Iftar, the end of the fast, draws near every day during Ramadan.

Trying to get home in time for Iftar (6:16pm today, for example), the city's working people stop along the way to pick up Iftar food from street vendors. The vendors in turn set up shops colorfully to entice not just the tastebuds but also the eyes of their customers.

Here are some Iftar colors from the streets of Dhaka.

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Muri or puffed rice (like Rice Krispies) is a perennial favorite at Iftar. Throw in chopped green chilis and shallots with a dash of mustard oil and lemon juice to make a delicious snack that does not sit too heavy in the stomach.



Dates are also very popular for breaking fast.




When the vendors start setting up shop, they don't have many customers....



...however, as the hour draws near, the crowds move in and money changes hands.



Haleem, a thick soup made from seven varieties of lentils and mutton or chicken, also sells well (though I find it a bit too heavy right after the fast.) These are the containers it is sold in, with prices attached...



...Haleem makers at work...



...and serving it up.





Meanwhile, back in the shop, this shopkeeper preps his own Muri fixings.



Many restaurants stay open during the day, but they cover the entrance with yellow or red curtain, so people dining inside do not offend the fasting people outside.



Near the Iftar stores, these kids were selling Ramadan and Eid greeting cards...



... and this man peddled religious paraphernalia.



At the end of a long day, Iftar shopping done, this man goes home with the booty.