Sunday, November 09, 2008

The Charms of Old Dhaka





You never know the charming surprises awaiting you when you explore Old Dhaka. As I watched some children playing by the road...




...I heard the rustle of wings, and this man showed up chasing a bird...



... while a little further up, this young man waited around with an unusual dog.



The chores of daily life went on. A boy got water for cooking..



...and lunch looked more promising with this Hilsa sold by a travelling fishmonger.



Elsewhere, two flower sellers enjoyed their morning cuppa..



... as two friends shared a secret.




Old Dhaka is a lot about old buildings. Like the dazzle of Qassabtuli Mosque...



... and the serene formalism of Pogose School...



... but running into unknown old buildings is a special treat, like this one at the Sutrapur end...



... or this old temple which is now someone's home.



Some buildings have welcoming entrances...



... while others have an air of mystery, like this barber shop...



... and yet others speak of longing.



But the melancholy passes quickly when a vivacious girl appears...



...or a pretty woman crosses the street.



Old Dhaka is also the heart of business in Dhaka. It takes all kinds. For example, some make balloons...



...while others sell them...



...during special occasions such as Durga Puja.



So... the next time you are in the area, drop by old Dhaka. It's as colorful as it gets. Like these girls at Dhakeswari Temple.

Wednesday, November 05, 2008

When Grown Men Cried Tears of Joy

Today was a very special day for anyone who loves America.

Grown men cried tears of joy, not just in America, but also in many other parts of the world.

Let's hope Obama lives up to his promise.

And let's hope the Bd politicians learn a little from the grace that McCain showed (none of that "hey to churi koira jitya gesey" stuff in December, ok?)

Saturday, October 25, 2008

Market Turmoil: View From Here

An article was floating around the other day suggesting Bangladesh will benefit from the current economic turmoil. It reminded me of the early days of the dot-com crash, when Sun's upper management were going around saying, effectively, "We will come out of this slowdown [it was not a crash yet] ahead of, and better than, our competition because bla bla bla." But of course Sun suffered heavily - for a host of reasons, lack of execution being a big one (but that's what happens when the Process Police takes over, no?) But Sun's management had not foreseen that, had they? You never know what strikes you in these situations.

I am not predicting impending doom for Bangladesh, but I cannot disregard the possibility that this country will be affected sooner of later. I spoke with the owner of a large export-oriented business last night. Some of his customers are cancelling or renegotiating contracts, and slowing down the buying. I also read about several Garments owners complaining about order cancellations. But maybe garments will be spared the worst. As another friend pointed out, "Americans are not going to start walking around naked!" According to him, this turmoil will give the buyers another chance to squeeze their Bangladeshi vendors a little more for lower prices.

The Taka being pegged to a resurgent dollar will not help our exports, for sure. But on the other hand, since most garments factories buy much of their raw material from abroad, their materiel costs (in Taka) will go down. Your head spinning yet? Mine is.

Banking in Bangladesh seems reasonably healthy. Much of this, I am told, has been because of the very strict regulating oversight of Bangladesh Bank (which, in turn, is influenced by World Bank.) Whatever the reasons, the banks in Bangladesh have not gone into the business of those crazy products and practices that have gotten the Western banks into trouble.

When I was chatting with a senior, respectable banker the other day, he pointed out that two years ago, some young, hot-shot, western-type bankers had given him and his colleagues a lecture on Securetization, Mortgage-Backed Securities, and other instruments that had become fashionable to the Western banks. At the end of the lecture, my friend had said, "But how can we go into this business? I still don't understand what you are talking about!" He might have felt bad about saying those words then, but today he is not losing a lot of sleep over toxic assets.

While banking appears on solid ground, remittances from overseas workers is a different, unpredictable matter. Some are saying that the drop of oil prices means the Middle Eastern countries will be starting fewer construction projects, and so will hire fewer people from here. The other side I heard was that the Middle Easterners are now so addicted to our cheap labor that they will keep on recruiting no matter what. Who knows?

Finally, real estate. When you have 150 million people squeezed into 55000 square miles, land is expensive. Two words: population pressure. Some, specially those who are in the business, don't see much effect on real estate prices. They argue that many of the buyers are local who have accumulated their wealth in Taka and are ready to spend on flats and land. Others say that real estate will have to slow down because the remittances and exports will slow down. Who knows?

On final reckoning, the market turmoil in the West does seem very far away from the average Bangladeshi, because that person is struggling so hard just to make ends meet and take care of those who depend on him or her. The optimist in me says being so close to tbe bottom of the barrel means that the Bangladeshi will not have to bear a heavy brunt of this storm, while the pessimist says that in times of crisis the worst hit are often those at the bottom of the heap. Who knows? Only time will tell.

Monday, October 06, 2008

Good Day for IT in Bangladesh

Yesterday I attended the inaugural ceremony of the Chittagong Custom House Automation Project at the Bd-China Friendship Center. The project is an undertaking by the Bangladesh Army with cooperation from Ctg Chamber of Commerce. It has a large software component which was developed by DataSoft, a Bangladesh software company.

The goal of the project was to "clean up" and modernize the Customs business at Ctg Port. According to the speakers, there were large inefficiencies and a lot of organized corruption which were choking the import/export lifeblood of the nation. The software component of the project is designed to automate the workflow of import/export paperwork.

The total cost of the project came to about Tk 2 crore. Significantly, under previous administrations, projects costing over Tk 300 crore had failed to modernize the port, as one of the speakers pointed out. (I am not sure what the previous large budgets had included.)

DataSoft is using the Build-Own-Operate-Transfer model to run the project. I assume this means they get an amount from every transaction that takes place.

As an example, the number of steps needed to export something through Ctg Customs House has been reduced from 22 to 7. Similar savings in time and cost were shown in other areas of operation.

The entire project was done with local skills (no foreign consultants or companies involved.)

It is not every day that one hears good things about the local IT business from local luminaries. Therefore, this event was a pleasant surprise for me, particularly because of the support for IT shown by all the speakers: the Chief Advisor and two other Advisors, Army Chief and Generals, Ctg Chamber of Commerce Head and NBR Head. I am sure the hard (and smart) work that the DataSoft team put into the project had a lot to do with this IT-friendly attitude.

At the end of the ceremony, the CA officially started the business of the new CTG Customs House by Clicking "OK" on a live program to start the transactions. DataSoft COO Manjur Mahmud - after making a short presentation on the technology - assisted the CA in this. Behind the scenes, DataSoft MD Mahboob Zaman's dynamism played a big role.

The local IT industry has much to be proud of. Despite an overall lack of vision and questionable (or downright bad) decisions by successive governments, and constant pressure from foreign software companies, they have accomplished much. Perhaps this event will usher in a new era of our national pride and support?

Congratulations to all - particularly to the DataSoft team - on this accomplishment. I hope this plays out well in the long run.

I think it is high time for the IT industry in Bangladesh to go on the offensive!

(Full Disclosure: I was once associated with DataSoft as their CTO - but can claim no credit for this project which started after I left.)

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Eid Portraits

Here are some photos of Eid children, taken within the last week. This is a happy time for most kids because they get new clothes, shoes, toys, ornaments, etc. Besides, everyone else is also in a happy mood.

On the way to Mohakhali bus station.



Waiting around to board the launch at Sadarghat.



"Care to join me for a drink at the Bus Terminal?"



For this boy who carries luggage and goods in Sadarghat, it was an exhausting day.



In the Chittagong train at Kamalapur.



Twins Saad and Sadat wait for their bus in Mohakhali.



This girl has decorated her hands with Mehndi (henna).



Photo-apprehensive sisters at Sadarghat launch terminal.



How do you like my new blue bangles?



Cheeky fellow waiting for the bus.

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Budget Airlines

Seeing a newspaper story about Air Asia given permission to fly in/out of Bangladesh, I was thrilled by the headline. But when I read the article, I discovered that they will be given permission to fly only to Chittagong, not Dhaka.

This really sucks. Between Thai, Singapore, Emirates and British Airways (plus a few others) the higher-priced airlines have the Bangladesh market locked up. I have heard, for example, the DAC->BKK->DAC route is the most profitable route in the world for Thai Airways. At USD 660 Roundtrip, this route and similar ones for SQ, etc, are juicy juicy plums. I am sure mainstream airlines are lobbying hard to keep the budget airlines out.

The fact that not a single budget airline serves ZIA says a lot, doesn't it? GMG was offering some good prices on their two or three overseas routes, but then they took a hit and shut down their foreign operations. It just seems like Dhaka passengers are destined to keep paying high prices for their overseas flights :-(

UPDATE Oct 29, 2008: GMG announced yesterday they are resuming flights to KL and Kathmandu. Hopefully lower fuel prices will help them along.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Story

Mahmud Rahman has a poignant yet funny short story in the Eid Issue of New Age, with an NRB protagonist, set in the Bay Area. I understand a collection of his short stories will be published soon by Penguin India. Way to go!

If you like the story you can read more at his website.

(btw, NRB stands for Non Resident Bangladeshi, although some perma-deshis say it also stands for Non Reliable Bangladeshi :-). )

Thursday, September 04, 2008

Iftar Colors

Something happens on the streets as Iftar, the end of the fast, draws near every day during Ramadan.

Trying to get home in time for Iftar (6:16pm today, for example), the city's working people stop along the way to pick up Iftar food from street vendors. The vendors in turn set up shops colorfully to entice not just the tastebuds but also the eyes of their customers.

Here are some Iftar colors from the streets of Dhaka.

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Muri or puffed rice (like Rice Krispies) is a perennial favorite at Iftar. Throw in chopped green chilis and shallots with a dash of mustard oil and lemon juice to make a delicious snack that does not sit too heavy in the stomach.



Dates are also very popular for breaking fast.




When the vendors start setting up shop, they don't have many customers....



...however, as the hour draws near, the crowds move in and money changes hands.



Haleem, a thick soup made from seven varieties of lentils and mutton or chicken, also sells well (though I find it a bit too heavy right after the fast.) These are the containers it is sold in, with prices attached...



...Haleem makers at work...



...and serving it up.





Meanwhile, back in the shop, this shopkeeper preps his own Muri fixings.



Many restaurants stay open during the day, but they cover the entrance with yellow or red curtain, so people dining inside do not offend the fasting people outside.



Near the Iftar stores, these kids were selling Ramadan and Eid greeting cards...



... and this man peddled religious paraphernalia.



At the end of a long day, Iftar shopping done, this man goes home with the booty.

Tuesday, September 02, 2008

How to Foil a Tree Thief

In rural Bangladesh, your iPod, laptop, or fancy digital camera is usually not a target of thieves. After all, what will a poor villager, driven to theft by sheer poverty, do with one of these gadgets? There is no market for them. (Cellphones are a different matter - you must keep them carefully wherever you go.)

Turns out the two things that village thieves go after most are trees and cows.

Although punishment meted out to cow-thieves is more severe, I think tree-thieves are the worse by far. Think about it. You plant a tree, spend years watching it grow, and one night it is gone. It will take years to grow it back, no matter how much money you throw at it.

My father had to deal with many tree-thieves all his life in his farm. About ten years ago thieves took one of his prized Teak (segun) trees. This was a tree he had planted three or four decades ago. It had weathered many storms and droughts and achieved an impressive girth. Then one morning it was no more.

My father was so upset and enraged that he got his men to dig up the stump, roots and all, and replanted it closer to his bungalow where the thieves would not dare touch it. Lo and behold, after ten years, two shoots from the stump are 20-30 feet tall. Two new shoots emerged this year. The tree has new life.

So there you have it - adapt to a new timescale and you too can foil a tree thief!

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Photoblog on Bangladesh

I have launched a photoblog on Bangladesh. The idea is to focus only on photographs showing various aspects of the country. I hope to update 2-3 times a week, sometimes with new pictures, sometimes with older ones in my stock.

It is brand-new and I am still fine-tuning it. If you have suggestions for improvement I will be grateful if you let me know, either as a comment here or in the photoblog itself.

Many thanks to Shams and Rajon for their help in this project.

Thursday, August 07, 2008

Victories Big and Small

Now that everyone's minds are on the Olympics, here are some tidbits about competitiveness as it relates to Bangladeshis.

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In the 2008 Math Olympiad in July, the Bangladeshi team ranked 75 out of 101 teams that participated. Bangladesh was sandwiched between Finland (74) and Iceland (76.)

This compared to their 80th (out of 102) ranking last year. Certainly a step in the right direction. Congrats to the team and all who worked on this.

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I don't follow chess at all, but someone pointed out to me the other day that Enamul Hossain Rajib, the 5th Grand Master from Bangladesh, scored an upset victory over Ukraine in the World Cup Chess Tournament in 2007. This placed Bangladesh in the second round, among the top 60 teams in the world. If you counted only Asian countries, Bangladesh was among the top ten. Now, if I could only play that game...

I have always felt that our chess players are really good and deserve more media attention than they get.

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From Silicon Valley, Talukder sisters Sabera and Leilah won First Place at the 2008 US National Synchronized Swimming Competition held at Binghamton, New York. Their team Los Gatos Angelfish won the First Place and they landed Gold Medals. If they keep going this way we can see the sisters at the Olympics one day.

So what is the Bangladesh connection, you ask? Their dad Shah Talukder is from Bangladesh (mom Darlene is American.) Congratulations, girls!

Here is a picture of the Champion sisters, courtesy of Papa Talukder.



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We now return you to the inevitable Olympics.

Wednesday, August 06, 2008

Good Cook, Bad Doctor

Our cook has been with us for almost a year now. Finding a person who can cook well is difficult in Dhaka. Problem is, those who can cook well know they are good and are full of attitude (and not to mention expensive.) Although she is not exactly Michelin 4-star, our Cook can get the job done. And she has the right attitude.

A few months ago, something curious happened. Cook started acting strange. She started forgetting things. She mixed up her spices. In some dishes salt became the main ingredient. Normally energetic cook always seemed tired and she seemed on the verge of losing her mind. We were perplexed. No amount of explaining, scolding, or yelling helped.

Since so much of our daily life depends on Cook - and if you know Dhaka life, you know that she can make or break your day every day - this started creating a lot of stress for us. Not to mention Cook, who was now really worried about what was happening to her.

Then one night my wife had a brainwave. "Wait, didn't she start taking some medicines last month?" By that time Cook had gone home, so we decided to wait till the next day.

The next morning, after toasts were burned and curdled milk poured into tea, I asked Cook about any medication she was taking. At this point, I should point out that Cook is quite overweight and had high blood pressure, for which reason she had visited the doctor. She had seemed happy with her visit and we had not pursued things further.

Anyways, Cook asked me to wait, went off into the kitchen and returned with a handful of pills. Get this, there were seven different medicines for: heart, ulcer, blood pressure, diabetes, headaches, plus a couple of others I did not recognize. "Do you have ?" I asked her after I read the name of each medicine, and she shook her head "No." I think the only thing was her diabetes, for which she needed to lose weight.

The doctor she had gone to had prescribed her all these medicines without explaining what they were for. I suggested to her she think twice before taking them. She saw a second doctor and then dropped all the medication, and decided to go on a diet to lose weight.

A few days later, somewhat enraged over her ordeal, she decided to visit the old doctor to give him a piece of her mind. She returned empy-handed - the bad doctor had closed up shop and disappeared because so many people of the neighborhood were mad at him.

Cook is doing fine these days. Her mind and her memory are both back. She lost some weight which helped her diabetes. I have not asked her if she is taking any medications. Hmmm, maybe I should ask one of these days?

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

A Book of Photographs

Recently I got a copy of the second edition of The People at Kamalapur Railway Station by Bangladeshi photographer Hasan Saifuddin Chandan. It is a book of black and white photographs, about seventy in all, taken at Kamalapur during the late 80s-early 90s.

In my eyes, this is one of the best - if not the best - book of photographs to have emerged from Bangladesh. Not only are the individual photographs excellent, but the sequencing and layout of the book are meticulous. The whole is thus bigger than the sum of the parts. The author understands not just how to take great pictures but how to put them together as a great book.

The book tells stories at many different levels. On the surface there is the great commotion of life that takes every day at Kamalapur. Then there are tender, sometimes witty stories about families (see the photo below), about motherhood, about social hieararchies (the single-file procession of Master, Mistress, child and servant walking along the tracks, p.12) about desire (boy staring intently on a handful peanuts being measured on a Palla, p.29) and spiritualism (man in prayer Sejda, p.13) - many with backdrops of the dramatic architectural elements of Kamalapur - they all come together in this book.

The book undergoes a shift in mood after an essay by the author on page 52. The photos become more melancholy and personal, whereas in the first part they were life-affirming and joyous, even in the poverty and deprivation. Old age and death play a big role in the second part, as do people whose life stories will most likely have no happy ending.

Chandan's work has been seen in many galleries and museums worldwide. He is one of the founders of MAP photo agency and has won numerous awards and honors over the years as a photographer.

The second edition has a few more photographs than the first. Compared side-by-side with the first edition, the printing is much better. Some photo details that were unclear on the first edition become clearer due to high-res scanning of the negatives. The size is a tad smaller at 26cmx34cm (it is still a large book.) The book is available from Words N Pages in Gulshan, Jatra in Banani, and Boi Bichitra in Dhanmandi Rd 27. It is worth every Taka of the Tk1300 price tag.

Here is one of my favorite photos of the book, reproduced with permission from Chandan.

Sunday, June 08, 2008

Ekkerey Dekhaya Disey (They've Shown Us)

Strange coincidence. In the last two weeks, I ran into two completely unrelated people - both highly qualified, PhD economist types working at responsible jobs - who told me the same thing.

The essence of what they said: Look at our farmers and what happened in the last few months. It only goes to show that if they get enough support, our farmers can really perform beyond expectations. The government assured them enough fertilizer and electricity for irrigation (I know, because even in the nicest neighborhoods of Dhaka loadshedding was brutal this summer). And they showed what they can do. Ekkerey dekhaya disey.

True, the Boro harvest was amazing. But the potato harvest before that was pretty large too. Knock on wood - let's hope it keeps going this way.

In my mind, more than anyone else, one person is responsible for the reinvigorated Bangladeshi farmer: Shykh Shiraj.

How about a ticket next election of Shykh Shiraj and Magistrate Rokon-ud-Dowla, huh?
That would be interesting...

Monday, June 02, 2008

Complain Complain Complain

I hate to complain on this blog - something about there being enough negativity out there about Bd without my piling on more. But this Washington Post article caught my eye and I must speak up.

While I agree that the poor of Bangladesh must be spoken for, this article is full of mistakes and negative stereotyping.

a) The reason BDR patrols those rice shops is because they are run by BDR. Hello? You might argue whether this is right for the market economy, but those shops were very popular during the high rice prices. Lines at the shops have gotten shorter recently indicating the near-famine situation is alleviating.

b) Rice prices have dropped from Tk 40/kg at their peak to less than Tk 30 now, thanks to the bumper Boro harvest. Did the writer even bother to check? This is really big news in Bangladesh.

c) Because of higher energy prices and misguided policies about biofuel, food prices have risen all over the world. Why pick on Bangladesh, huh?

d) Beggars are not really a good indicator of what is going on with the poor. That is because begging is a mafia-style profession in Bangladesh, with very well-developed structures (you can rent a baby or a handicapped person, for instance.) A better data point might be to check in the urban poor neighborhoods or some villages.

e) Speaking of beggars, I have never heard of any woman in Bangladesh being called "Bib Norjaham". Say what? Probably was Bibi Nurjahan and the author was thinking of blueberry jam?

f) Compare death toll from SIDR to other calamities such as Nargis

g) On the average, Bd produces 95% of the food it needs. Last year was exceptionally bad: two floods and a Sidr.

h) Garment workers have struck sporadically ever since the garment industry started in the 80s. Hello? Is anyone paying attention? If you don't believe me, come and live here for a few years. Yes, garment owners underpay. Too bad they get away with it. But there are very few value propositions out there as compelling as "cheap labor".

i) Climate refugees - there was another misleading article in the NYT some months ago on this - even in my childhood, after a flood, people migrated to cities, and then went back when it was time to cut the rice. Can someone prove to me that there are actually refugees in Bangladesh who have moved out from their home villages because their homes were sunk as a direct result of global warming?

i) The term "Rice Revolution" is new to me. Maybe it has been in the papers, but I read the DS regularly and I have not seen it. Has a nice ring to it - catchy, isn't it?

When will Bangladesh start to be defined by Bangladeshis and not by some fly-by-night foreign journalists who write without doing their homework.

Friday, May 23, 2008

Can We Make Them Stay?

In March 2006, in the middle of my tenure at DataSoft (a Dhaka software company), we found ourselves searching for a pre-Sales Engineer - someone with both technical knowhow and customer savvy. We interviewed many candidates with no luck: usually the ones who spoke well did not understand technology, and the geeks could not express themselves well (as a test we asked them to present a talk on a topic they chose.)

We struck gold after the fifth or sixth interview. Khaled: a brilliant fellow, articulate, a patient listener who could earn the customer's trust, but technically sharp - he seemed to have it all. Towards the end of the interview I asked one of my favorite interview questions:

"What do you see yourself doing three years from now?"

"Living abroad, of course! I will get out of Bangladesh the first chance I get - probably within the next year."

His answer struck me with blinding force. All these years I had been on the other side of the fence (having left when I was 16.) Suddenly I realized what others who had stayed back and tried build the country had faced when so many of our talented and well-educated kids left.

Within the past week I heard of two other cases of bright, one-in-a-million types who have left the country. One had started a well-thought-out Web 2.0 startup 3-4 years ago. I saw one of his papers in a Microsoft MSDN guide and was very impressed, only to be told the bad news that he was no longer around having first gone to Malaysia and then to the US. Another person I heard of got a job at Microsoft even before he graduated from college and took off. This person was apparently quite the genius. And every year our ACM champions get picked up by Google, Microsoft or other global companies.

Ok... so what? Those who want to leave will leave, right? Perhaps. But perhaps some of them would have stayed back if the right incentives were offered. In whatever IT strategy we have as a nation, we have never tried to address this issue. People like the cases above should be offered golden handcuffs. They ought to be treated as princes (or princesses) and every resource should be put at their disposal so they are able to build a globally successful IT business from right here in Bangladesh.

Only then will we get that success story that we need for the dam to break and our IT industry to break throgh to the next level.

In the meantime, let us also not forget our IT pioneers - the ones who have stayed back and who are fighting on the IT frontlines every day, sometimes against very difficult odds - with the respect, resources and support that they deserve. It is because of them that we even have an IT industry in Bangladesh.

Monday, May 12, 2008

Krishnachura

Krishnachura - arguably the most beautiful flower on the planet - is blooming. Here are some pictures.